Somewhat desperate for consistent work, we started working as telemarketers in a call center. Our job was to call Australians and try to convince them to meet with one of our consultants to discuss purchasing investment property. Rachel and I spent a few days in college calling people in Dallas inviting them to an investment meeting on behalf of an investment company. It was brutal and left us feeling dejected and annoying each night after interrupting hundreds of family dinners. Our telemarketing in Queenstown made our Dallas experience seem like a breeze. The system in Queenstown was much more high tech and automatically dialed up to 75 calls per hour for 5 hours a day. We both got some pretty interesting rejections, but it was fun to laugh about with each other in between. I was terrible and got 0 meetings booked (that’s almost 2000 rejections). In all likelihood, I would have been fired during my second week because I was so bad. Instead of trying to counter someone’s disinterest like I was taught, I usually just told them to have a great night. Rachel, however, was much better and made at least 3 bookings (so much harder than it sounds). She also had a fun call when she was patched through to a man turning 86 years old. Rachel followed the script, “Hi, this is Rachel calling from Future First…” The man didn’t hear anything after “This is Rachel” and thought his granddaughter, also named Rachel, had called to wish him Happy Birthday. He was so excited that Rachel needed a couple minutes to calm him down and explain she wasn’t his granddaughter, but she wished him a very happy birthday anyway.
My dry spell with job searching changed mid-week and Rachel’s changed shortly after. I got a job up in the restaurant on The Remarkables - one of the major ski mountains on the South Island. The people I work with are young and most are traveling in NZ just like us. Days off and some very long lunch breaks are spent skiing on the mountains. It’s good fun, fast paced, and I’m getting to ski more than I ever have before.
The most exciting news is Rachel just heard back from her top job choice today. The clothing and lifestyle brand, Billabong, is opening a new store in Queenstown on September 4th and Rachel was chosen to be the new STORE MANAGER! She starts work tomorrow and is very exciting about her new role.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
WWOOFing at HIBURN Farm
The Hosts:
The Otago region was largely settled by Scottish immigrants chasing the 1860’s gold rush. Once the gold dried up, the Scots put their farming skills from back home to use. The terrain was similar to Scotland and raising sheep for wool in addition to other animals came easily.
My hosts, Jack and Claire, are both descendents of the early Scotch miners and took up farming 30 years ago after he grew tired of the trucking business he created. Jack is a true Southern Man with a rugged appearance including bushy sideburns and ridiculously untamed eyebrows.
Because of the large Scottish background in the area, they frequently share their heritage with fellow descendent farmers. Jack and Claire’s biggest extracurricular and social activity is curling, which is originally a Scottish sport. The local curling club owns a small pond on the edge of Jack’s property, which is neatly tucked away in a valley so it receives no sunlight during the winter. Checking the thickness of the ice and informing all members is a morning ritual for Jack. It is a perfect location for hosting curling matches and it is the only pond in NZ that can accommodate a bonspiel, or a round-robin curling tournament between all eight area clubs. The curling club hosted a Scottish themed fundraiser on Saturday which featured a haggis ceremony, Scottish dances, and a complete bagpipe ensemble. I joined in for a few dances and especially enjoyed Jack’s reciting of Robert Burns’ Ode to the Haggis.
I was also lucky enough to participate in a curling match on Monday, which takes several hours and includes several tea breaks in between the constant sipping of Scotch whisky (They prefer Famous Grouse). Curling is known as ‘The Roaring Game,’ not because the players become roaring drunk after all the whisky, but rather the sound the 40lb stones make when gliding across the ice. Curling is actually very similar to bocce ball, so it was relatively easy to pick up, although the addition of brooms and sweeping the ice added a new element.
The Work:
I arrived to the farm at 9am last Thursday and immediately hopped into Jack’s tractor and we were off to feed part of their 2200 Merino sheep and 200 red deer. I was amazed at the ease of some of the tasks that must have taken hundreds of hours longer just 20 years ago. There is a machine to do everything. Feeding 12 tons of hay took just over 1.5 hours with plenty of travel time in between the different paddocks. We finished just in time for the morning tea break, or smoko.
After smoko, Jack got out a couple of his champion sheep dogs to bring in some sheep suffering from hoof rot. (Merino sheep are rugged animals and usually live in very dry environments. Otago has received a lot of rain this winter and their hooves aren’t wearing down properly in the mud, so the hooves have grown too long and make walking so painful that many can’t move to eat. Our job was to bring in the sheep and clip their hooves as necessary – basically like clipping toe nails. Watching them struggle to walk around on their knees was heartbreaking, so I was glad to help.) Jack has won a number of regional and national sheep dog titles and watching him work the dogs has been one of my favorite parts on the farm. Jack uses two types of dogs: the Border collie, which chases and corners to move the sheep. And the NZ Huntaway, which herds sheep by barking. (The Huntaway was the main breed used at the Speight’s Dog Derby and Dog Barking competitions during the Queenstown Winter Festival, so the history of the Dog Barking event is more obvious now.)
He let the dogs out and yelled a couple of incomprehensible words and the dogs sprinted out of site. I wasn’t sure what was going on, but before I could ask, the dogs were bringing back a flock of 75+ sheep. Jack kept whistling and speaking some weird tongue as the dogs carefully brought them directly into the pen where we were standing. I asked what he was saying to the dogs and he smiled as his Scottish roots shone through: he’s trained all of his dogs to understand Gaelic. Another funny thing is the naming of his dogs. Not your usual pet names, but I suppose they are more co-workers than pets: Norm, Ned, Hugh, Glen, Sam, and Bess. He told me that the names needed to be easy to shout repeatedly and that ‘Rock’ is a horrible name for a sheep dog because it has trouble escaping the mouth.
Once we had all the sheep in the pen, they needed to walk single file up a ramp where they walked into a pneumatic device that is essentially a giant Venus flytrap. Once they were in position, Jack pressed a button that quickly but softly clamped the sheep and flipped it on its side. Once the sheep was on its side, it was quite relaxed and Jack gave them a well deserved pedicure to make their feet as good as new. My job, meanwhile, was to stand in a puddle of mud at the bottom of the ramp and encourage the sheep to get in line. Sheep are the sweetest and most docile creatures I’ve come across, but they are incredibly stupid which makes it hard to help them. I used my knees to push them, a long stick to jab them, and occasionally grab the whole animal and toss it onto the ramp. I was timid at first, afraid of hurting them, but they didn’t seem to mind and didn’t put up much of a struggle when forced. One thing I learned very quickly is that while this is just a fun experience for me, it is Jack and Claire’s livelihood and they need to get business done quickly. I still don’t have the heart to whack, shove, and drag the sheep like they do, but I do understand the animals more and can move them more effectively.
In between sheep, Jack told me to take a look at their wool. I’ve always thought Merino’s wool looked like dreadlocks due to its clumpy and nappy texture. Jack told me to spread the outer layer and look further down. I was amazed because the first inch of fleece is mangy and stiff, but after that it is snow white and incredibly soft. This became my new favorite activity while lining them up – checking the whiteness and softness of their fleece.
He explained the shearing process, which will occur at the end of August. They have three shearers come in for a week and each worker shears about 300 sheep each day. The individual fleeces are put on a table where Claire determines the color, thickness, strength, and softness. She puts each fleece into one of five bins based on these factors; then they get shipped out to the factories for cleaning and production.
In fact, we had to shear a few sickly sheep. It was funny to watch them transform from a fat, grubby looking animal into a skinny and snow-white one. Claire said some of them get a new lease on life once sheared; the next day two of them were very lively and returned to their pastures
As I mentioned above, the farm is Jack and Claire’s business and they’ve been around these animals for years. One thing I haven’t adjusted to is the frequent deaths of animals and their unceremonious disposal. Jack told me, “Wherever you have live animals, you will also have dead animals.” I won’t go into detail, but I guess there is a reason they don’t name all 2200 sheep and 200 deer and claim them as pets. Actually, that isn’t quite true; after working alongside Jack for over a week, I’ve learned that all the farm animals do have a name…Bastard.
It has been a great experience and I’m glad I was able to spend 10 days out here. My hands are blistered, bloody, and stained brown from mud, plus I think I have tendonitis in my arm from opening and closing the tractor door over 100 times a day (literally), but this is one of my fondest memories of NZ.
The Otago region was largely settled by Scottish immigrants chasing the 1860’s gold rush. Once the gold dried up, the Scots put their farming skills from back home to use. The terrain was similar to Scotland and raising sheep for wool in addition to other animals came easily.
My hosts, Jack and Claire, are both descendents of the early Scotch miners and took up farming 30 years ago after he grew tired of the trucking business he created. Jack is a true Southern Man with a rugged appearance including bushy sideburns and ridiculously untamed eyebrows.
Because of the large Scottish background in the area, they frequently share their heritage with fellow descendent farmers. Jack and Claire’s biggest extracurricular and social activity is curling, which is originally a Scottish sport. The local curling club owns a small pond on the edge of Jack’s property, which is neatly tucked away in a valley so it receives no sunlight during the winter. Checking the thickness of the ice and informing all members is a morning ritual for Jack. It is a perfect location for hosting curling matches and it is the only pond in NZ that can accommodate a bonspiel, or a round-robin curling tournament between all eight area clubs. The curling club hosted a Scottish themed fundraiser on Saturday which featured a haggis ceremony, Scottish dances, and a complete bagpipe ensemble. I joined in for a few dances and especially enjoyed Jack’s reciting of Robert Burns’ Ode to the Haggis.
I was also lucky enough to participate in a curling match on Monday, which takes several hours and includes several tea breaks in between the constant sipping of Scotch whisky (They prefer Famous Grouse). Curling is known as ‘The Roaring Game,’ not because the players become roaring drunk after all the whisky, but rather the sound the 40lb stones make when gliding across the ice. Curling is actually very similar to bocce ball, so it was relatively easy to pick up, although the addition of brooms and sweeping the ice added a new element.
The Work:
I arrived to the farm at 9am last Thursday and immediately hopped into Jack’s tractor and we were off to feed part of their 2200 Merino sheep and 200 red deer. I was amazed at the ease of some of the tasks that must have taken hundreds of hours longer just 20 years ago. There is a machine to do everything. Feeding 12 tons of hay took just over 1.5 hours with plenty of travel time in between the different paddocks. We finished just in time for the morning tea break, or smoko.
After smoko, Jack got out a couple of his champion sheep dogs to bring in some sheep suffering from hoof rot. (Merino sheep are rugged animals and usually live in very dry environments. Otago has received a lot of rain this winter and their hooves aren’t wearing down properly in the mud, so the hooves have grown too long and make walking so painful that many can’t move to eat. Our job was to bring in the sheep and clip their hooves as necessary – basically like clipping toe nails. Watching them struggle to walk around on their knees was heartbreaking, so I was glad to help.) Jack has won a number of regional and national sheep dog titles and watching him work the dogs has been one of my favorite parts on the farm. Jack uses two types of dogs: the Border collie, which chases and corners to move the sheep. And the NZ Huntaway, which herds sheep by barking. (The Huntaway was the main breed used at the Speight’s Dog Derby and Dog Barking competitions during the Queenstown Winter Festival, so the history of the Dog Barking event is more obvious now.)
He let the dogs out and yelled a couple of incomprehensible words and the dogs sprinted out of site. I wasn’t sure what was going on, but before I could ask, the dogs were bringing back a flock of 75+ sheep. Jack kept whistling and speaking some weird tongue as the dogs carefully brought them directly into the pen where we were standing. I asked what he was saying to the dogs and he smiled as his Scottish roots shone through: he’s trained all of his dogs to understand Gaelic. Another funny thing is the naming of his dogs. Not your usual pet names, but I suppose they are more co-workers than pets: Norm, Ned, Hugh, Glen, Sam, and Bess. He told me that the names needed to be easy to shout repeatedly and that ‘Rock’ is a horrible name for a sheep dog because it has trouble escaping the mouth.
Once we had all the sheep in the pen, they needed to walk single file up a ramp where they walked into a pneumatic device that is essentially a giant Venus flytrap. Once they were in position, Jack pressed a button that quickly but softly clamped the sheep and flipped it on its side. Once the sheep was on its side, it was quite relaxed and Jack gave them a well deserved pedicure to make their feet as good as new. My job, meanwhile, was to stand in a puddle of mud at the bottom of the ramp and encourage the sheep to get in line. Sheep are the sweetest and most docile creatures I’ve come across, but they are incredibly stupid which makes it hard to help them. I used my knees to push them, a long stick to jab them, and occasionally grab the whole animal and toss it onto the ramp. I was timid at first, afraid of hurting them, but they didn’t seem to mind and didn’t put up much of a struggle when forced. One thing I learned very quickly is that while this is just a fun experience for me, it is Jack and Claire’s livelihood and they need to get business done quickly. I still don’t have the heart to whack, shove, and drag the sheep like they do, but I do understand the animals more and can move them more effectively.
In between sheep, Jack told me to take a look at their wool. I’ve always thought Merino’s wool looked like dreadlocks due to its clumpy and nappy texture. Jack told me to spread the outer layer and look further down. I was amazed because the first inch of fleece is mangy and stiff, but after that it is snow white and incredibly soft. This became my new favorite activity while lining them up – checking the whiteness and softness of their fleece.
He explained the shearing process, which will occur at the end of August. They have three shearers come in for a week and each worker shears about 300 sheep each day. The individual fleeces are put on a table where Claire determines the color, thickness, strength, and softness. She puts each fleece into one of five bins based on these factors; then they get shipped out to the factories for cleaning and production.
In fact, we had to shear a few sickly sheep. It was funny to watch them transform from a fat, grubby looking animal into a skinny and snow-white one. Claire said some of them get a new lease on life once sheared; the next day two of them were very lively and returned to their pastures
As I mentioned above, the farm is Jack and Claire’s business and they’ve been around these animals for years. One thing I haven’t adjusted to is the frequent deaths of animals and their unceremonious disposal. Jack told me, “Wherever you have live animals, you will also have dead animals.” I won’t go into detail, but I guess there is a reason they don’t name all 2200 sheep and 200 deer and claim them as pets. Actually, that isn’t quite true; after working alongside Jack for over a week, I’ve learned that all the farm animals do have a name…Bastard.
It has been a great experience and I’m glad I was able to spend 10 days out here. My hands are blistered, bloody, and stained brown from mud, plus I think I have tendonitis in my arm from opening and closing the tractor door over 100 times a day (literally), but this is one of my fondest memories of NZ.
Monday, July 27, 2009
short update from the farm
Things on the farm are very interesting and fun. The area is unbelievably beautiful sitting alongside the Southern Alps. I've mostly been working 8-9 hours a day, which is far more than WWOOF expects, but I don't mind at all. The accommodation is listed as 'comfortable'...and I'm sure it is perfect in the summer. It is a small hut with no insulation and the only heat comes from a small space heater plugged into a single outlet. I can see my breath within 15minutes of unplugging the heater. My computer only runs on a/c power these days, so I am forced to choose between staying warm or typing. I usually choose warmth. However, I'm making headway on the activities I've been up to and I hope to post it tomorrow.
In the meantime, here are some ads that will give you a glimpse into my daily life...Basically, I'm attending the Great Southern Finishing School
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLIKeupkYQg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47AksKNnbQQ
In the meantime, here are some ads that will give you a glimpse into my daily life...Basically, I'm attending the Great Southern Finishing School
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLIKeupkYQg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47AksKNnbQQ
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
gone WWOOFing
headed WWOOFing again. here is the description from the guide:
Description: Merino sheep and red deer. Hay making, general farm work and maintenance.
General Information: Rugged and interesting area 10 minutes from Cromwell. Irrigation and hill country, rabbit shooting, top working sheepdogs. We enjoy sharing our lifestyle with visitors. Comfortable accommodation.
I told the head housekeeper (a Brazilian with mediocre English) that I was leaving to go work on a sheep farm. He smiled and softly asked, "Are you going to kill the sheep?" I frowned and said, "I hope not; I was just hoping to get lucky and shave a sheep." I never even thought that killing sheep might be part of the work, but the farm is located on Slaughter Road... I really hope I don't have to kill anything, but I suppose I won't be as surprised if it comes up.
I'll let you know how it goes, but it sounds interesting.
Description: Merino sheep and red deer. Hay making, general farm work and maintenance.
General Information: Rugged and interesting area 10 minutes from Cromwell. Irrigation and hill country, rabbit shooting, top working sheepdogs. We enjoy sharing our lifestyle with visitors. Comfortable accommodation.
I told the head housekeeper (a Brazilian with mediocre English) that I was leaving to go work on a sheep farm. He smiled and softly asked, "Are you going to kill the sheep?" I frowned and said, "I hope not; I was just hoping to get lucky and shave a sheep." I never even thought that killing sheep might be part of the work, but the farm is located on Slaughter Road... I really hope I don't have to kill anything, but I suppose I won't be as surprised if it comes up.
I'll let you know how it goes, but it sounds interesting.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Flashback to Rotorua - Maori Experience
We mentioned earlier that Rotorua has an incredible amount of geothermal activity and the year-round warmth attracted Maori tribes upon their discovery of New Zealand. There is still a strong Maori presence, which have encouraged numerous “Maori Experience” programs designed to help understand the culture, legends, and people. They also include a hangi – a traditional Maori meal, which is baked in an underground oven.
The Maori experience started in the evening and we both had the day off work, so we drove 2hrs north to the Bay of Plenty to the hot and sunny beaches of Tauranga and Mt. Maunganui (aka The Mount). Tauranga is on the verge of breaking into the top 4 or 5 cities for population, so while it only has about 115,000 people the traffic was chaotic and stressful compared to the leisurely pace in Taupo. I was pretty tense until we arrived at the beautiful beaches of Mt. Maunganui. Tauranga and The Mount are like a micro version of the DFW metroplex – they are about 4 miles apart and eventually merged into one metropolitan area.
The Mount gets its name from the extinct volcano, which abruptly shoots up from the beach and provides a wonderful vantage point for looking over the Bay and landscape beyond. Before hiking to the top, Rachel and I grabbed some lunch at a beachfront café. The sand was white and the break made for a perfect surfing day. (We hope to get a day of surfing in when traveling back to Auckland next February.)
After a 45 min hike to the top, we had some pretty outstanding views of the beaches below, islands in the bay, and the deep green forests inland..JPG)
After descending from the Mount, we hopped in the car and drove an hour south to Rotorua for our evening of fun and learning.
We were welcomed to the marae (a Maori tribe meeting ground) by the sound of distant beating drums hidden somewhere in the native bush. We walked into the main tent where our hosts seated us and we were told what to expect throughout the evening.
After introductions, they led us down to the stream where the iwi’s (tribe) warriors arrived in the ornately carved wooden canoe. Their faces were focused and brutal with their hard-earned and unique moko. (A moko is a facial tattoo which has several meaningful depictions overlaid and it shows your status within the tribe) Rachel and I have seen several people in public with moko; it is quite startling and it is no wonder the European settlers were afraid of the Maori men…and women. I’m not sure of the actual meaning, but the women’s moko resembles blood dripping from their mouth.
The Maori experience started in the evening and we both had the day off work, so we drove 2hrs north to the Bay of Plenty to the hot and sunny beaches of Tauranga and Mt. Maunganui (aka The Mount). Tauranga is on the verge of breaking into the top 4 or 5 cities for population, so while it only has about 115,000 people the traffic was chaotic and stressful compared to the leisurely pace in Taupo. I was pretty tense until we arrived at the beautiful beaches of Mt. Maunganui. Tauranga and The Mount are like a micro version of the DFW metroplex – they are about 4 miles apart and eventually merged into one metropolitan area.
The Mount gets its name from the extinct volcano, which abruptly shoots up from the beach and provides a wonderful vantage point for looking over the Bay and landscape beyond. Before hiking to the top, Rachel and I grabbed some lunch at a beachfront café. The sand was white and the break made for a perfect surfing day. (We hope to get a day of surfing in when traveling back to Auckland next February.)
After a 45 min hike to the top, we had some pretty outstanding views of the beaches below, islands in the bay, and the deep green forests inland.
.JPG)
After descending from the Mount, we hopped in the car and drove an hour south to Rotorua for our evening of fun and learning.
We were welcomed to the marae (a Maori tribe meeting ground) by the sound of distant beating drums hidden somewhere in the native bush. We walked into the main tent where our hosts seated us and we were told what to expect throughout the evening.
After introductions, they led us down to the stream where the iwi’s (tribe) warriors arrived in the ornately carved wooden canoe. Their faces were focused and brutal with their hard-earned and unique moko. (A moko is a facial tattoo which has several meaningful depictions overlaid and it shows your status within the tribe) Rachel and I have seen several people in public with moko; it is quite startling and it is no wonder the European settlers were afraid of the Maori men…and women. I’m not sure of the actual meaning, but the women’s moko resembles blood dripping from their mouth.
After the warriors landed their canoe and ran off, we headed to an outdoor theater, which was set up as a tiny marae with all the huts and buildings of a village. They showed us the traditional welcome, which was seen on the latest series of The Amazing Race when they visited NZ. The hongi, a touching of the noses creates a spiritual and physical bond.
The group performed several songs and traditional dances in between discussing the history of their people. They showed us arts and crafts and how the flax plant played an integral role in making things from ropes to clothing to fishing nets and hunting devices.
One of the most talked about and exciting parts of the night was the performance of the haka, or the Maori war dance. ('ha' means 'breath'; 'ka' means 'on fire') It is extremely passionate and therefore extremely frightening, especially if you were about to engage them in battle. The national rugby team, the All Blacks perform the haka before every competition as well, which undoubtedly leaves the opposing team more than a little unnerved. The most common haka translates to:
One of the most talked about and exciting parts of the night was the performance of the haka, or the Maori war dance. ('ha' means 'breath'; 'ka' means 'on fire') It is extremely passionate and therefore extremely frightening, especially if you were about to engage them in battle. The national rugby team, the All Blacks perform the haka before every competition as well, which undoubtedly leaves the opposing team more than a little unnerved. The most common haka translates to:
It is death! It is death!
It is life! It is life!
This is the hairy man who caused the sun to shine
Keep abreast!
The rank! Hold Fast!
Into the sun that shines!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BoNmpvkavo
It is life! It is life!
This is the hairy man who caused the sun to shine
Keep abreast!
The rank! Hold Fast!
Into the sun that shines!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BoNmpvkavo
The All Blacks haka: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3o0pv6k37yE
The next part of the evening was the hangi. We walked by it earlier in the evening and caught the aroma of the chicken, pork, lamb, potatoes, and kumaras (NZ sweet potatoes) cooking in the natural underground oven. The meal included many more sides and treats, but the traditional hangi usually consists of the aforementioned items.
Once we’d finished eating, they took on a nighttime walk through the native bush. Our guide told more Maori legends and history from the area. One of the most fascinating parts of the walk was his lesson on NZ ferns. The national emblem for NZ is the silver fern, but there are over 150 different species of fern in NZ. He flashed his light up to the underside of the silver fern and it shone brightly back. He explained that his people actually used upside silver fern leaves to light their path on night excursion. (Rachel and I tried it a few weeks ago at night and were surprised at how well it works.)
Afterwards, we thanked our hosts and bid farewell to the sulphuric smells of Rotorua and headed home to Taupo.
Once we’d finished eating, they took on a nighttime walk through the native bush. Our guide told more Maori legends and history from the area. One of the most fascinating parts of the walk was his lesson on NZ ferns. The national emblem for NZ is the silver fern, but there are over 150 different species of fern in NZ. He flashed his light up to the underside of the silver fern and it shone brightly back. He explained that his people actually used upside silver fern leaves to light their path on night excursion. (Rachel and I tried it a few weeks ago at night and were surprised at how well it works.)
Afterwards, we thanked our hosts and bid farewell to the sulphuric smells of Rotorua and headed home to Taupo.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Speight's Dog Derby
The Queenstown Winter Festival ends today and it has created a really fun and lively vibe around town. I’m sad that it’s over, but there are still tons of events on the calendar. I had a little more freedom than Rachel to volunteer at some of the events up on the mountain. My favorite activity of the festival was the Speight’s Dog Derby. Speight’s is a brand of beer made in the south of NZ and their ads are reminiscent of the old Marlboro cigarette ads. Southern NZ and its inhabitants have a reputation for being extremely hardy. Speight’s beer and the Dog Derby caters to these hardy southern farmers.
Over one hundred farmers and their hard-working dogs showed up to the base of the ski mountain in their torn and tattered work clothes, as if they cut their morning work short to make it up to the mountain in time for the event. I found out later that this event served as an annual reunion for all the southern farmers, and after the day’s event they’d spend the rest of the afternoon and evening catching up at the Speight’s Ale House.
While their owners registered for the Dog Derby, the hundred or so dogs ran around marking and re-marking everything in the area, including a box of contestant t-shirts, my backpack, and a couple human legs. Once all the dogs had their numbered vests on, the chaos was ready to begin.
The Dog Derby had all 100 contestants and their dogs ride the chairlift to the summit of the ski mountain. The race started with all 200 bodies running, sliding, flailing, rolling, and tumbling down the mountain at breakneck speeds (taking out several oblivious skiers). Upon reaching the base, the owner has to stay out and instruct his dog to run 50m up the hill to a checkpoint before turning around and running back to owner. I was a judge for the finish and was told it was going to be hard, but nothing could prepare me for it.
The first few dogs and owners absolutely flew down the mountain and it was easy to track the dogs’ progress as they started creeping up the hill. However, before the first dog made it to the top, all 100 dogs were zig zagging across the hill. Keep in mind that 95% of these dogs are all basically the same breed of sheep dog and it was impossible to tell if a dog made it to the top and was on its way back down, or if it was just wandering aimlessly confused by all the whistling, calling, and barking.)
The main judges hoped that we’d be able to get accurate results approximately 30 deep, but it was hopeless. After deliberation with the other four judges, we managed to pick just the three top finishers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wR7RdJUD3vY
After the awards for the race down the mountain, they held the Dog Barking contest, which wasn’t nearly as exciting, but still worth mentioning. They had each dog get on a hay bale and try to bark the loudest or most unique. The funniest part was watching the normally large and proud sheep dogs nervously walk up to the bale and cower. The large audience laughing (and the sea of dogs barking their disapproval) didn’t help the stage fright. If the dog couldn’t bark under the pressure and eyes of its fellow colleagues, then the solemn farmer had to climb up on the bale and bark.
Anyway, it ended up being a really fun event and I’m glass I was thrown on that volunteer crew last minute. The festival concludes today with the annual rail jam and fireworks up on the mountain.
Hope everyone had a Happy 4th of July!
Over one hundred farmers and their hard-working dogs showed up to the base of the ski mountain in their torn and tattered work clothes, as if they cut their morning work short to make it up to the mountain in time for the event. I found out later that this event served as an annual reunion for all the southern farmers, and after the day’s event they’d spend the rest of the afternoon and evening catching up at the Speight’s Ale House.
While their owners registered for the Dog Derby, the hundred or so dogs ran around marking and re-marking everything in the area, including a box of contestant t-shirts, my backpack, and a couple human legs. Once all the dogs had their numbered vests on, the chaos was ready to begin.
The Dog Derby had all 100 contestants and their dogs ride the chairlift to the summit of the ski mountain. The race started with all 200 bodies running, sliding, flailing, rolling, and tumbling down the mountain at breakneck speeds (taking out several oblivious skiers). Upon reaching the base, the owner has to stay out and instruct his dog to run 50m up the hill to a checkpoint before turning around and running back to owner. I was a judge for the finish and was told it was going to be hard, but nothing could prepare me for it.
The first few dogs and owners absolutely flew down the mountain and it was easy to track the dogs’ progress as they started creeping up the hill. However, before the first dog made it to the top, all 100 dogs were zig zagging across the hill. Keep in mind that 95% of these dogs are all basically the same breed of sheep dog and it was impossible to tell if a dog made it to the top and was on its way back down, or if it was just wandering aimlessly confused by all the whistling, calling, and barking.)
The main judges hoped that we’d be able to get accurate results approximately 30 deep, but it was hopeless. After deliberation with the other four judges, we managed to pick just the three top finishers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wR7RdJUD3vY
After the awards for the race down the mountain, they held the Dog Barking contest, which wasn’t nearly as exciting, but still worth mentioning. They had each dog get on a hay bale and try to bark the loudest or most unique. The funniest part was watching the normally large and proud sheep dogs nervously walk up to the bale and cower. The large audience laughing (and the sea of dogs barking their disapproval) didn’t help the stage fright. If the dog couldn’t bark under the pressure and eyes of its fellow colleagues, then the solemn farmer had to climb up on the bale and bark.
Anyway, it ended up being a really fun event and I’m glass I was thrown on that volunteer crew last minute. The festival concludes today with the annual rail jam and fireworks up on the mountain.
Hope everyone had a Happy 4th of July!
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Whakapapa Village, May 23
thanks to my mother, we now have the device to download videos to the computer. here is a quick video we took on may 23
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Fun Facts about New Zealand
New Zealand is roughly two-thirds the size of California and they share a lot of similarities in terrain. However, the population of California is nearly 37 million and New Zealand has just over 4 million people (that’s about the population of Houston or Atlanta). New Zealand has about 7-8 locations that are large enough to call cities. The largest city by far is Auckland, which has approximately 1.3 million residents – that wouldn’t even rank among the top three cities in Texas. The next two biggest cities are the capital, Wellington, and Christchurch which both almost have about 400,000 folks.
So what do they do with all that extra land? There are plenty of National Parks, Forests, and other amazing scenery so tourism plays a large part of NZ’s economy, but agriculture is the largest contributor. As most of you know, NZ is quite famous for its sheep population, which outnumbers its human population by more than 10 to 1 (It used to be 20:1 in the early ‘80s). Throughout our travels, we’ve expected to see a few large fields crammed with thousands and thousands of sheep. However, there are mostly flocks of about 300 scattered all over the country. It’s hard not to see sheep roaming the surrounding hills while driving down the highways and back roads. They are literally everywhere.
Dairy, beef, and logging are other large industries in NZ. Someone told me that logging was very popular years ago and many farmers planted forests on their land. Lately, thanks to Fonterra (a dairy cooperative that controls about 30% of the world’s dairy exports) the dairy industry is highly profitable and many farmers are cutting down their forests to create more grazing land. Despite the recent economic struggles, Fonterra was able to distribute its biggest profit share to date.
So what do they do with all that extra land? There are plenty of National Parks, Forests, and other amazing scenery so tourism plays a large part of NZ’s economy, but agriculture is the largest contributor. As most of you know, NZ is quite famous for its sheep population, which outnumbers its human population by more than 10 to 1 (It used to be 20:1 in the early ‘80s). Throughout our travels, we’ve expected to see a few large fields crammed with thousands and thousands of sheep. However, there are mostly flocks of about 300 scattered all over the country. It’s hard not to see sheep roaming the surrounding hills while driving down the highways and back roads. They are literally everywhere.
Dairy, beef, and logging are other large industries in NZ. Someone told me that logging was very popular years ago and many farmers planted forests on their land. Lately, thanks to Fonterra (a dairy cooperative that controls about 30% of the world’s dairy exports) the dairy industry is highly profitable and many farmers are cutting down their forests to create more grazing land. Despite the recent economic struggles, Fonterra was able to distribute its biggest profit share to date.
Winter in New Zealand…
…is cold. Actually, the daytime temperatures hover around 25-35 degrees, which we see in the Southern US. However, those temperatures rarely stick around for more than 1-2 days before warming back up to the 50s. Rachel and I quickly learned how to layer much better than before. We’ve never needed heavy winter coats before, so we’ll usually put on 3-5 thin jackets to stay warm.
It’s funny when you realize how wonderful something is once you don’t have it. I’ve heard some public service announcements stating that over 60% of homes in New Zealand have substandard insulation and it likely plays a large part in children developing respiratory problems such as asthma. The government and banks have teamed up to help fix some of those 900,000 homes with poor insulation, as it helps keep people healthy and retain valuable heat throughout the winter.
A log fire is the most common way to heat a house in NZ. Jon and Amy were building up their fire wood reserves about the time we moved in. It was all very exciting because we both have fond memories from our childhood of sitting in front of a big fire on Christmas morning or after playing outside in one of the extremely rare snow storms. The fires were always for ambiance and never really played a role in heating the home – that was left for the central heating/air system.
Jon informed me that a typical winter’s supply of wood generally costs about $1000-1500. Jon is a builder, so he has an endless supply of kindling and he was lucky this year because a massive tree fell on a friend’s property so a large portion of the wood was free. Jon also installed a new fireplace while we were there. It was centrally located in the living room and the chimney was exposed, so it let off much more heat than a smokestack covered with stones or bricks. They also had a fan system which pulled air from the living room into the bed rooms at the back of the house.
Heat pumps (think a large wall-mounted space heater) are gaining popularity, but the up front investment is pretty sizable and the sharp increase in the electric bill doesn’t make it too tempting of an option either.
One of my favorite parts about all the log fires is the scents in the evenings. As you walk around town, you get all sorts of different smells coming from the various types of wood burning. Also, if you look out across town around dusk you can see a thin layer of smoke rising as everyone is starting to light their fires.
This is coming from someone who has never lived further north than Atlanta, so all of the previously mentioned things may be ordinary above the Mason-Dixon Line. Overall, we’ve had a couple of cold days and nights, but are managing much better than we thought.
It’s funny when you realize how wonderful something is once you don’t have it. I’ve heard some public service announcements stating that over 60% of homes in New Zealand have substandard insulation and it likely plays a large part in children developing respiratory problems such as asthma. The government and banks have teamed up to help fix some of those 900,000 homes with poor insulation, as it helps keep people healthy and retain valuable heat throughout the winter.
A log fire is the most common way to heat a house in NZ. Jon and Amy were building up their fire wood reserves about the time we moved in. It was all very exciting because we both have fond memories from our childhood of sitting in front of a big fire on Christmas morning or after playing outside in one of the extremely rare snow storms. The fires were always for ambiance and never really played a role in heating the home – that was left for the central heating/air system.
Jon informed me that a typical winter’s supply of wood generally costs about $1000-1500. Jon is a builder, so he has an endless supply of kindling and he was lucky this year because a massive tree fell on a friend’s property so a large portion of the wood was free. Jon also installed a new fireplace while we were there. It was centrally located in the living room and the chimney was exposed, so it let off much more heat than a smokestack covered with stones or bricks. They also had a fan system which pulled air from the living room into the bed rooms at the back of the house.
Heat pumps (think a large wall-mounted space heater) are gaining popularity, but the up front investment is pretty sizable and the sharp increase in the electric bill doesn’t make it too tempting of an option either.
One of my favorite parts about all the log fires is the scents in the evenings. As you walk around town, you get all sorts of different smells coming from the various types of wood burning. Also, if you look out across town around dusk you can see a thin layer of smoke rising as everyone is starting to light their fires.
This is coming from someone who has never lived further north than Atlanta, so all of the previously mentioned things may be ordinary above the Mason-Dixon Line. Overall, we’ve had a couple of cold days and nights, but are managing much better than we thought.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Arrival to Queenstown...
We arrived in Queenstown on Monday afternoon to attend the volunteer meeting for the Winter Festival. The 1hr drive from Wanaka (another smaller mountain town) to Queenstown was astoundingly beautiful as we climbed and descended through the mountains. Queenstown is often called the adventure capital of the world and it is quite evident upon arrival; there is a constant buzz and just walking down the streets gets your adrenaline pumping. It sits on Lake Wakatipu with the Southern Alps looking like they’ll slide into the lake any minute.
A couple of the ski mountains are already open, but the Winter Festival marks the official start of winter. It is a 10 day festival filled with music, parties, races, and a huge assortment of other random activities. There are about 5 new stores on the main street who are frantically trying to finish setting up their merchandise and store front so they’ll be open for the huge influx of visitors.
We are still awaiting our final volunteer assignments, but we hope to get a good mix of work both on the mountain and down in the town center.
As far as work goes, it sounds like we came at the best time possible in a place where there is an endless supply of people wanting work for a very limited number of positions. We’ve met countless people who have been here since the end of May desperately looking for any work at all. We’ve heard from job search agencies and locals that places will start hiring again in the next week. Fingers crossed.
In the meantime, Rachel landed a coveted job as a housekeeper at one of the big hostels, which offers free accommodation in exchange for 3hrs of cleaning each day. Among her tasks are cleaning up spoons from all the shower floors! Sound random? Rachel was perplexed too, so she asked another cleaner what the deal was. The showers in the hostel have water saving faucets that only stay on for 10 seconds at a time. Residents have figured out that if they jam a spoon into the space between the handle, the water will stay on until they’re ready to get out. Sounds silly…but we did it this morning and it worked great.
All for now.
A couple of the ski mountains are already open, but the Winter Festival marks the official start of winter. It is a 10 day festival filled with music, parties, races, and a huge assortment of other random activities. There are about 5 new stores on the main street who are frantically trying to finish setting up their merchandise and store front so they’ll be open for the huge influx of visitors.
We are still awaiting our final volunteer assignments, but we hope to get a good mix of work both on the mountain and down in the town center.
As far as work goes, it sounds like we came at the best time possible in a place where there is an endless supply of people wanting work for a very limited number of positions. We’ve met countless people who have been here since the end of May desperately looking for any work at all. We’ve heard from job search agencies and locals that places will start hiring again in the next week. Fingers crossed.
In the meantime, Rachel landed a coveted job as a housekeeper at one of the big hostels, which offers free accommodation in exchange for 3hrs of cleaning each day. Among her tasks are cleaning up spoons from all the shower floors! Sound random? Rachel was perplexed too, so she asked another cleaner what the deal was. The showers in the hostel have water saving faucets that only stay on for 10 seconds at a time. Residents have figured out that if they jam a spoon into the space between the handle, the water will stay on until they’re ready to get out. Sounds silly…but we did it this morning and it worked great.
All for now.
Monday, June 22, 2009
some videos we watched at our orientation
The first video was made by an Australian who was making fun of the way Kiwis speak.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdVHZwI8pcA
The second video had us ready to bolt from the conference room and get on the road to explore
http://www.youtube.com/PureNewZealand
enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdVHZwI8pcA
The second video had us ready to bolt from the conference room and get on the road to explore
http://www.youtube.com/PureNewZealand
enjoy
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Kaikoura
We arrived to the South Island on June 11 and have had a whirlwind journey so far on our way to Queenstown for the Winter Festival. After a few days in the Marlborough region (more to come soon), we left Nelson on a sunny Tuesday afternoon headed for Kaikoura (Kai = food; koura = crayfish). Kaikoura is one of the best places in the world to see a diverse group of sea mammals, especially sperm whales. The ocean floor drops off drastically to depths of 1000m and as the warm upper currents mix with the colder deep currents, it raises plenty of food and provides a perfect feeding ground for a variety of whales and dolphins. There are also several seal colonies along the rugged coastline. .JPG)
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The folks at the visitor center showed us a 3.5hr walking route, which would take us by a couple of the seal colonies and eventually lead us to the top of beachside cliffs providing a spectacular view of the Kaikoura Mountain range and Pacific coastline. We didn’t make it far on the walk before stopping to indulge at the famous roadside Seafood BBQ trailer where we got an Elephant fish sandwich and seafood chowder.
We continued towards the first seal colony where we hoped to get lucky and spot one swimming around in the shallow rocky water. A few minutes later, we saw a large brown blob scooting its way through the tall grass alongside the road looking determined to cross the road. We were so surprised to see a seal this up-close we were sure it was sick and disoriented. Why would a seal be this far from the water and trying to cross the road…and not nervous in the slightest to see two dumbfounded humans five feet away? We slowly walked by trying not to startle it, but made sure to take tons of pictures. We hi-fived thinking how lucky we’d been to spot a seal on our walk. One minute later, we spotted over 30 seals sunning themselves on the rocks, sand, and even in the grass. We soon found out that hundreds of seals lounging in the area near the road is an everyday occurrence in Kaikoura.
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The walking route took a sharp turn up from the beach to the cliff tops tracing the shoreline. The views of the perfectly green pastures backed by the snowcapped mountains were remarkable. We had to cross over several fences that kept the dairy cows in the respective grazing land. Rachel found out the hard way that the fences were electric – I’ve never seen someone dismount from a stepladder so fast. (We discussed how this hiking route could not exist in the U.S. in the same way it does in NZ. Farmers in the US wouldn’t take too kindly to hundreds of tourists walking through their land and alongside their cattle. Also, the courts might overflow with hikers filing lawsuits for getting shocked by the electric fence.) The rest of the hike was free from injury, although our pride was bruised quite a bit after we missed a turn and had to finish our gorgeous hike along the state highway. Once we made it back to the car, we drove 2.5hrs down to Christchurch..JPG)
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Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Excursions From Taupo
Apologies for the very long delay in updating the blog. We left Taupo 10 days ago and are making our way to Queenstown where we'll volunteer at the Queenstown Winter Festival. We'll be posting more updates from our past adventures while living in Taupo and our current ones. Thanks. (also, be sure to click on the scrolling pictures to the left to view many more pictures from our online google album)
Our last stop in Napier was supposed to be a winery tour at the Misson Estate winery, which originally started as a French mission and is now the oldest winery in NZ. However, on our way we mistakenly turned into one of the other wineries on the same street – Church Road Winery. We walked in hoping to get on the last tour of the day, but it was overbooked so we settled for a wine tasting in the restaurant. This was only our fourth wine tasting ever, so we appreciated the sommelier helping us identify the flavors we were tasting while giving a very detailed history of the winery and surrounding area. After our tasting, we decided we’d try for a tour at our original destination at Mission Estate Winery. The winery is perched on a hill overlooking the Bay with a spectacular entrance passing between two plots of vines along a tree lined drive. Mission Estate didn’t host tours, but we guided ourselves through the historic building and gardens..JPG)
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We got back in the car and meandered through the streets of Napier while eating our fresh fruits before heading back to Taupo.
I finally found work 2 weeks after Rachel started a Waterside. During my unemployment, I was a man of leisure and found a couple occasions to drive an hour north to Rotorua for some of the best mountain biking in the Southern Hemisphere. The vast network of trails was reminiscent of our epic mountain biking journey through British Columbia last summer. I also spent several lazy afternoons reading on our deck and looking across the lake towards the mountains. Jon and Amy’s deck is a perfect spot to watch the sun set over the hills. They laughed at me during our first week living with them as I scrambled on railings and hung on to the gutters to get the best sunset shot I could. I tried to capture the perfect sunset to show Rachel how amazing the sunsets were…until I found out her view of the setting sun was even more spectacular and panoramic from her restaurant. 
Eventually, I found work with one of the skydiving companies in town. I was hired as part of the ground camera and video editing crew. It is a ton of fun and involves lots of interaction with the passengers before they go up and I am the first to welcome them back to earth, so I see a huge range of emotions with every group. It has been a perfect job, full of excitement. The employees are from all over the world and most have left a previous career to become full time skydivers.
Eventually, I found work with one of the skydiving companies in town. I was hired as part of the ground camera and video editing crew. It is a ton of fun and involves lots of interaction with the passengers before they go up and I am the first to welcome them back to earth, so I see a huge range of emotions with every group. It has been a perfect job, full of excitement. The employees are from all over the world and most have left a previous career to become full time skydivers.
Our first free weekend, we drove 2hrs east to the Hawke’s Bay region to visit the coastal city of Napier. Hawke’s Bay is known as the fruit bowl of NZ because the terrain and climate make a perfect growing location. In addition to growing the most fruit and vegetables in NZ, Hawke’s Bay is one of the finest wine growing areas in the country. There are nearly 40 wineries within a few miles of Napier’s city center.
Napier is unique because the whole city is designed in Art Deco style. There was a tremendous earthquake in the early 1930s and when the time came to rebuild, they decided to do it in a uniform contemporary architectural style, which happened to be Art Deco. The bright colors also help accentuate the beach atmosphere.
It is about 70 miles from Taupo to Napier, but the drive takes about 2 hours because the road twists and turns through hills and along ridges as it passes from the central plateau down to the east coast. You can see the ocean about 40 minutes before you arrive to Napier’s sunny beaches. (Hawke’s Bay receives over 2200 hours of sunshine a year)
The highway drives by several vineyards and ad hoc fruit stands. We stopped by one of the stands to get some fresh golden kiwi fruits, apples, and vegetables. The highway passes over a flat stretch that used to be under water, but the 1931 earthquake exposed more than 200 square miles of sea bed. The relatively new land is actually where many of the vineyards and apple orchards sit.
After grabbing lunch at a café on the promenade, we went for a stroll on the beach. The beach was a little unusual because there was no sand to be found. It was full of smooth, tiny, black rocks that were perfect for skipping across the calm ocean. We tried digging to find any trace of sand, but all we found were small stones.
Next, we drove up the very steep roads to the top of the Bluff Hill for look out over the port and straight down the beach to Cape Kidnappers, home of the world’s largest gannet population.
Napier is unique because the whole city is designed in Art Deco style. There was a tremendous earthquake in the early 1930s and when the time came to rebuild, they decided to do it in a uniform contemporary architectural style, which happened to be Art Deco. The bright colors also help accentuate the beach atmosphere.
It is about 70 miles from Taupo to Napier, but the drive takes about 2 hours because the road twists and turns through hills and along ridges as it passes from the central plateau down to the east coast. You can see the ocean about 40 minutes before you arrive to Napier’s sunny beaches. (Hawke’s Bay receives over 2200 hours of sunshine a year)The highway drives by several vineyards and ad hoc fruit stands. We stopped by one of the stands to get some fresh golden kiwi fruits, apples, and vegetables. The highway passes over a flat stretch that used to be under water, but the 1931 earthquake exposed more than 200 square miles of sea bed. The relatively new land is actually where many of the vineyards and apple orchards sit.
After grabbing lunch at a café on the promenade, we went for a stroll on the beach. The beach was a little unusual because there was no sand to be found. It was full of smooth, tiny, black rocks that were perfect for skipping across the calm ocean. We tried digging to find any trace of sand, but all we found were small stones.
Next, we drove up the very steep roads to the top of the Bluff Hill for look out over the port and straight down the beach to Cape Kidnappers, home of the world’s largest gannet population.
Our last stop in Napier was supposed to be a winery tour at the Misson Estate winery, which originally started as a French mission and is now the oldest winery in NZ. However, on our way we mistakenly turned into one of the other wineries on the same street – Church Road Winery. We walked in hoping to get on the last tour of the day, but it was overbooked so we settled for a wine tasting in the restaurant. This was only our fourth wine tasting ever, so we appreciated the sommelier helping us identify the flavors we were tasting while giving a very detailed history of the winery and surrounding area. After our tasting, we decided we’d try for a tour at our original destination at Mission Estate Winery. The winery is perched on a hill overlooking the Bay with a spectacular entrance passing between two plots of vines along a tree lined drive. Mission Estate didn’t host tours, but we guided ourselves through the historic building and gardens..JPG)
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We got back in the car and meandered through the streets of Napier while eating our fresh fruits before heading back to Taupo.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Welcome to Taupo
We drove 50 miles south to Taupo on a Saturday morning to watch the Taupo Ironman and take a break from job searching in Rotorua. The drive into Taupo is stunning, as you see the three massive volcanoes of Tongariro National Park sitting neatly behind the equally impressive Lake Taupo. The views across the lake were so striking that we decided to stay in Taupo for a bit. Conveniently, all of our possessions live neatly in the van, so the only items left in our Rotorua hostel were two carrots and some milk. Taupo is smack dab in the middle of the North Island and it sits on a lake the size of Singapore, which was created by an enormous volcano eruption 1800 years ago. The eruption was so large – more than ten times the eruptions of Mount St. Helens and Krakatoa combined – the Romans and Chinese both documented dramatic changes in the skies which helped provide an exact date for the eruption of 186AD.
The huge influx of Ironman participants and fans from all over the world occupied all accommodations in Taupo, so we were forced to sleep in our van. We parked alongside four other campervans overlooking the lake and nestled in for the night. I woke up at 3am to a flashlight in the eyes. The city of Taupo employs a person to drive around to all desirable sleeping locations for campervan owners/renters and put a friendly notice on all illegally parked vehicles. No threats, no warnings – just a pleasant suggestion on better places to sleep. I took the notice to heart and went back to sleep.
We took a break from watching the Ironman on Saturday to quickly drive to Tongariro National Park (home to Mordor and Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings) and explore the volcanic area. We made it just in time for an amazing sunset and I was overwhelmed with a renewed excitement for our travels in NZ. We snapped a hundred photos of the scenery hoping to capture the beauty, but still feel we were unsuccessful.
The huge influx of Ironman participants and fans from all over the world occupied all accommodations in Taupo, so we were forced to sleep in our van. We parked alongside four other campervans overlooking the lake and nestled in for the night. I woke up at 3am to a flashlight in the eyes. The city of Taupo employs a person to drive around to all desirable sleeping locations for campervan owners/renters and put a friendly notice on all illegally parked vehicles. No threats, no warnings – just a pleasant suggestion on better places to sleep. I took the notice to heart and went back to sleep.
We took a break from watching the Ironman on Saturday to quickly drive to Tongariro National Park (home to Mordor and Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings) and explore the volcanic area. We made it just in time for an amazing sunset and I was overwhelmed with a renewed excitement for our travels in NZ. We snapped a hundred photos of the scenery hoping to capture the beauty, but still feel we were unsuccessful.
We spent Sunday exploring more of Taupo and visited Huka Falls, Craters of the Moon thermal area, and the somewhat famous Prawn Park where you can spend an entire day fishing for giant shrimp with a fishing pole. We opted for the kill-a-prawn golf experience, where we tried to hit a golf ball into one of 4 hoops in hopes of winning a cash prize. No luck.
The Waikato River flows peacefully for several miles from Lake Taupo until it reaches roaring Huka Falls before continuing northwest to the Tasman Sea. Huka Falls is a violent 33 foot waterfall that appears much shorter because of its width and ferocious churning. The river is 200 feet wide in places and it is suddenly forced into a 25 foot wide rock-walled channel. The combination of the majestic blue water and the sheer force of the water had everyone mesmerized in silence. There is a popular kayaking spot upriver from the falls and I hoped to see a kayaker try to paddle through the falls from my distorted view upstream. As soon as we walked into full view and read the anatomy of the falls, I realized it would be a death wish to try and paddle it.
After two lazy but enjoyable days, we decided it was time to do something a little wilder. Taupo is unique for skydiving because it is the only place in NZ where you can jump from 15,000 feet, which is actually the highest jump you can do as a tandem skydive (the passenger is harnessed and attached to a skydive master/pilot). From 15,000 feet, you can see the curvature of the Earth and on a clear day you can see both of NZ’s coasts. It is a 60 second freefall with a 4 min canopy ride. Because of the consistently good weather there are three skydive companies here, and the price wars between them make for one of the cheapest skydives in NZ as well.
The sleek flyer for Skydive Taupo bragged that they’d pick us up in a limousine, let us choose our own music for our video, and offer us a beer upon landing. We’re not ones to pass up a ride in limo, so we booked it. The driver picked us up in front of the hostel in a white 1990s err…limo with the boomerang antenna half-heartedly attached with black electrical tape. We hopped into the torn and tattered seats and hoped the quality of the parachutes were a little higher than this. The driver gave us the spiel that it was much more likely that we’d get injured on the way to airport than during the skydive...
We arrived at the airport safely, so it looked like it was going to be a good day. They showed us a sample video of the skydive and, as expected, had us sign our lives away. They put us in jumpsuits and harnesses while we watched others land and walk back into the hangar with faces of exuberance, panic, or shock. Before we knew it, we climbed into a bright pink plane and took off for 15,000 feet.
The door opened and Rachel and her tandem master scooted towards the door. We looked at each other and communicated through an awkward smile: “I love you. Hope to see you on the ground. If not, good-bye.” And then she was gone. It was one of the scariest moments of my life, but I didn’t have long to think about it because in less than a second, I was sitting on the edge of the plane looking straight down. [They say you can see the curve of the Earth and both coasts from 15,000 feet, but the only thing I saw was the ground directly below me.] The first second of the freefall was the scariest part to me – I totally freaked out. There was absolute silence and weightlessness. It felt like I was falling all alone. A second later, the sound and feeling of the wind rushing by eased my nerves and I loved the rest. After 60 seconds, the tandem master pulled the parachute and we started a the scenic float back to Earth with amazing views of the lake, Tongariro National Park, and the surrounding countryside (at this point we were at 4000 feet, so it was too low to see anything else).
I looked over to see Rachel flying just 50 feet away and we yelled hello and gave an air hi-five. We made it safely to the ground and ran to give each other a hug. Rachel was laughing hysterically and this continued for about 20 more minutes. Rachel had to sit down several times once back in the hangar because she was laughing too hard. She was walking and shaking so nervously that the staff had to relocate Rachel outside because she was freaking out the customers who were waiting their turn to jump. In the end, it was an amazing experience and I think we’ll be doing it at least one more time…
The sleek flyer for Skydive Taupo bragged that they’d pick us up in a limousine, let us choose our own music for our video, and offer us a beer upon landing. We’re not ones to pass up a ride in limo, so we booked it. The driver picked us up in front of the hostel in a white 1990s err…limo with the boomerang antenna half-heartedly attached with black electrical tape. We hopped into the torn and tattered seats and hoped the quality of the parachutes were a little higher than this. The driver gave us the spiel that it was much more likely that we’d get injured on the way to airport than during the skydive...
We arrived at the airport safely, so it looked like it was going to be a good day. They showed us a sample video of the skydive and, as expected, had us sign our lives away. They put us in jumpsuits and harnesses while we watched others land and walk back into the hangar with faces of exuberance, panic, or shock. Before we knew it, we climbed into a bright pink plane and took off for 15,000 feet.
The door opened and Rachel and her tandem master scooted towards the door. We looked at each other and communicated through an awkward smile: “I love you. Hope to see you on the ground. If not, good-bye.” And then she was gone. It was one of the scariest moments of my life, but I didn’t have long to think about it because in less than a second, I was sitting on the edge of the plane looking straight down. [They say you can see the curve of the Earth and both coasts from 15,000 feet, but the only thing I saw was the ground directly below me.] The first second of the freefall was the scariest part to me – I totally freaked out. There was absolute silence and weightlessness. It felt like I was falling all alone. A second later, the sound and feeling of the wind rushing by eased my nerves and I loved the rest. After 60 seconds, the tandem master pulled the parachute and we started a the scenic float back to Earth with amazing views of the lake, Tongariro National Park, and the surrounding countryside (at this point we were at 4000 feet, so it was too low to see anything else).
I looked over to see Rachel flying just 50 feet away and we yelled hello and gave an air hi-five. We made it safely to the ground and ran to give each other a hug. Rachel was laughing hysterically and this continued for about 20 more minutes. Rachel had to sit down several times once back in the hangar because she was laughing too hard. She was walking and shaking so nervously that the staff had to relocate Rachel outside because she was freaking out the customers who were waiting their turn to jump. In the end, it was an amazing experience and I think we’ll be doing it at least one more time…
We finished the day by walking to a natural hot spring that meets the cool waters of the Waikato River. We had a perfect view of the sun setting over the hills while soaking in the hot water.
Unlike Rotorua, searching for jobs in Taupo was much more fruitful and helped to restore our self-confidence. We had been rejected so many times in the previous weeks that we started to wonder if we’d ever find work in NZ. Rachel was offered a job as a waitress at one of the nicest restaurants in town on her first outing. Waterside is in the most vibrant part of town, and as the name indicates, it is right on the water overlooking the lake with a guaranteed beautiful sunset every night.
Unlike Rotorua, searching for jobs in Taupo was much more fruitful and helped to restore our self-confidence. We had been rejected so many times in the previous weeks that we started to wonder if we’d ever find work in NZ. Rachel was offered a job as a waitress at one of the nicest restaurants in town on her first outing. Waterside is in the most vibrant part of town, and as the name indicates, it is right on the water overlooking the lake with a guaranteed beautiful sunset every night.
My job search lasted a little longer and I was put in charge of finding our home in Taupo for the next few months. We responded to a couple of ads on NZ’s version of Ebay and I visited a couple while Rachel was hard at work. The second place I went by was perched on a hill overlooking the lake and within walking distance to the town center. It was perfect. Jon and Amy invited us into their home for the extent of our stay in Taupo. They are a young couple with similar interests and we’ve already shared some great memories with them.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Rotorua
All driving directions in Rotorua begin with “you’ll smell it before you see it.” Rotorua is one of the most active geothermal areas in the world and it is littered with boiling mud pools, hot mineral baths, and cracks in the Earth spewing steam. All of these cracks allow the smell of sulphur to seep out from everywhere, so you truly do smell it before you see it. The countless water sources mixed with the year-round warmth provided by the geothermal activity made it a perfect place for a large group of Maori to settle and it is still strongly influenced by the Maori culture. It also has adventures around every corner.
We called a hostel and requested the “Steal Deal” package which included a pass to the Polynesian Spa (35 naturally heated mineral pools ranging from 97 to 110 degrees), a white water rafting trip down the Kaituna River (Maori for ‘Eel Food’) complete with a 23 foot waterfall – the biggest commercially run waterfall in the world, and a ticket up the Skyline Gondola with 5 rollercoaster-like luge rides down three different tracks ranging from a 1.5 mile scenic route to the screaming fast ½ mile long advanced course.
We expected to stay 3-4 days in Rotorua before heading to the Hawke’s Bay region to find
work picking apples/grapes for a few weeks. However, after one day in Rotorua we decided to find work and stay for a few months. It is an active city on the shores of Lake Rotorua and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens and it seems to host at least one event or festival each weekend.
We woke up for our rafting trip to a drizzling morning. All of my prior rafting experience involved frigid waters from snow melt and the thought of rafting in the rain with freezing river water sounded miserable. We crossed our fingers that they would cancel the trip, but no such luck. The bus picked us up from the hostel and the bus driver/rafting guide soon relieved our biggest fear – the river was actually over 80 degrees thanks to warm lake the river flowed from. Once on the river, we looked forward to getting flipped out of the raft so we could float in the warm water.
We were given a quick 3 minute lesson on how to paddle and what to do in the likely event that the boat flipped over on one of the three waterfalls – a very encouraging start. The trip only lasted one hour, but it was a very intense hour filled with rapid after rapid. It concluded with a 23 foot waterfall that frequently flips even the best guides. Right before plummeting over the edge, our guide yelled for us to drop to the bottom of the raft and tuck our heads. Our boat was the first to go over and we made it successfully. We watched from below as each of the next four boats flipped over, sending the passengers literally flying in every direction. We had a good laugh as we helped rescue the passengers while they waited for their boat to turned right side up.
We called a hostel and requested the “Steal Deal” package which included a pass to the Polynesian Spa (35 naturally heated mineral pools ranging from 97 to 110 degrees), a white water rafting trip down the Kaituna River (Maori for ‘Eel Food’) complete with a 23 foot waterfall – the biggest commercially run waterfall in the world, and a ticket up the Skyline Gondola with 5 rollercoaster-like luge rides down three different tracks ranging from a 1.5 mile scenic route to the screaming fast ½ mile long advanced course.
We expected to stay 3-4 days in Rotorua before heading to the Hawke’s Bay region to find
work picking apples/grapes for a few weeks. However, after one day in Rotorua we decided to find work and stay for a few months. It is an active city on the shores of Lake Rotorua and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens and it seems to host at least one event or festival each weekend.We woke up for our rafting trip to a drizzling morning. All of my prior rafting experience involved frigid waters from snow melt and the thought of rafting in the rain with freezing river water sounded miserable. We crossed our fingers that they would cancel the trip, but no such luck. The bus picked us up from the hostel and the bus driver/rafting guide soon relieved our biggest fear – the river was actually over 80 degrees thanks to warm lake the river flowed from. Once on the river, we looked forward to getting flipped out of the raft so we could float in the warm water.
We were given a quick 3 minute lesson on how to paddle and what to do in the likely event that the boat flipped over on one of the three waterfalls – a very encouraging start. The trip only lasted one hour, but it was a very intense hour filled with rapid after rapid. It concluded with a 23 foot waterfall that frequently flips even the best guides. Right before plummeting over the edge, our guide yelled for us to drop to the bottom of the raft and tuck our heads. Our boat was the first to go over and we made it successfully. We watched from below as each of the next four boats flipped over, sending the passengers literally flying in every direction. We had a good laugh as we helped rescue the passengers while they waited for their boat to turned right side up.
Rotorua was originally set up as a spa town due to the multitude of hot pools in the area, so the obvious activity after rafting was to head over to the Polynesian Spa to soak our cold and sore muscles in the hot mineral pools. We were greeted by a Korean man who was eager to practice his English and trivia skills by giving both Rachel and me 30 facts about our home state. We gradually worked our way from the coolest to hottest of the Spa’s 35 pools. Even the coolest pool was 97 degrees, so I frequently hit up the extravagant outdoor cold shower that was beautifully designed with red, green and blue stones in the wall.
We headed to the Skyline Gondola in the morning, where we took a Gondola up the side of a mountain and got a breathtaking view of the town, Lake Rotorua, and the surrounding mountains and forests. From the moment we arrived, people told us how much fun the luge rides in Rotorua and Queenstown were. All pictures of luging look incredibly unimpressive and ours are no different. Pictures make this activity look like a lame carnival ride, but it is the complete opposite. The luge ride is basically a motorless go-kart that follows a winding track down a mountain and it can easily reach speeds over 30mph. As with a couple things we’ve discovered in NZ- the thrill of the ride is paramount and safety is secondary. There were no guard rails and with lanes 4 times as wide as a luge, racing was not discouraged. Rachel and I had a blast and survived with little more than a minor case of whiplash from an overeager 12 year old at the finishing line. 
The next week was spent searching for jobs and exploring the city and its surroundings. The recession has not really hit NZ yet, but the fear of it has caused hiring freezes and with no hopeful leads, we drove 50miles south to Taupo. Taupo has been our base for the past month and met some wonderful people and have had some amazing experiences.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Waitomo Caves
There are very few happenings in Waitomo besides the glowworm caves. They have 2-3 hotels and a couple of cafes, so the reasonable option was to stay 20 minutes away in Otorohanga the night before our adventure in the caves. We pulled into a campground off the main road. The camp hosts were really friendly and gave us lots of helpful pointers…however, they forgot to mention the Kiwi House and Native Bird Park right behind the campground. We read the guest book in the kitchen and quickly got an idea of what our night would be like. One backpacker wrote “Loved the beautiful chorus of birds throughout the night.” Kiwis are nocturnal, but the kiwi houses try to reverse their schedules so visitors can actually see them during the day. Apparently, the new intern’s attempts to reverse the kiwis’ schedule failed miserably because they were talking ALL NIGHT LONG. By 4am, the whole bird park was engaged in excited conversation and any chance of sound sleeping was gone.
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On the strong recommendation of our visa sponsor, we signed up for the Haggas Honking Holes tour. We didn’t really catch much of her description except “Indiana Jones in a washing machine”. After suiting up in 8-10mm thick wetsuits, helmets, and white gumboots/wellies (looking fabulous!), we took a practice run repelling down a small hill and headed for the cave entrance. The guides laughed that this particular trip didn’t allow for any time to get used to the equipment and repelling before the big stuff because the cave entrance started with a 65 foot repel down a jagged waterfall. Rachel and I were the last two to descend to the mysterious cave floor. Everyone before us had turned off their lights, so it was tough to tell how much further we needed to go until we dropped into a knee deep pool of water at the bottom. The pace of the trip didn’t slow down and the helmets and thick wetsuits were much appreciated as we bumped our heads, slid through holes slightly larger than me, and crawled on hands and knees through frigid pools enhanced with sharp and rocky edges. After several more repels down waterfalls, we came to a room full of glowworms where our guide (According to another guide, had earned a PhD in glowworms/fungus gnats...wow) gave us a humorous account of the fungus gnat's life. A glowworm isn’t actually a worm at all- it is the larvae of the fungus gnat that drops several sticky fishing lines, like a spider’s web, which glows a blue-green to attract insects for food. The insect flies towards the enchanting light and gets stuck in the fishing line. An adult cannot eat at all, so it spends its entire life (3 days) frantically searching for a mate. After they mate, the female goes off to lay her eggs while the male blissfully heads towards the beautiful glowing lights above and gets caught in a fishing line. After the female lays her eggs, she absentmindedly heads for another set of glowing lights and gets caught in another line, only to be eaten by her unborn niece..JPG)
We climbed through a few more tunnels and over some slippery and narrow natural bridges (that would not be allowed in the U.S. without hand rails) and popped out of the cave to a warm afternoon. We showered and headed for Rotorua
Friday, March 20, 2009
Auckland to Raglan
February 22 – March 1
Long story short: our Ford van’s glory days were back when Rachel and I were still in elementary school. We limped our way to Auckland where we traded up from our oil guzzling Ford van to an over-the-top but totally awesome 4x4 turbo diesel van (owned and cared for by a mechanic, but we got an independent inspection just to be safe). He loved our old van and had the parts to make it like new again, so we ended up paying much less for our new van than expected.
Long story short: our Ford van’s glory days were back when Rachel and I were still in elementary school. We limped our way to Auckland where we traded up from our oil guzzling Ford van to an over-the-top but totally awesome 4x4 turbo diesel van (owned and cared for by a mechanic, but we got an independent inspection just to be safe). He loved our old van and had the parts to make it like new again, so we ended up paying much less for our new van than expected.
During our brief layover in Auckland before heading south, we stopped off at some of the sites we missed during our initial blitz after landing in NZ two weeks prior. We caught the New Zealand symphony in the park along with 150,000 others on a beautiful summer night.
With no plan in mind, we headed south and decided that we’d better take the requisite surf lesson before the temperatures dropped too low with autumn approaching. We headed for Raglan (home of the best left-handed break in the world…which still means nothing to us) and as Lonely Planet predicted, we only expected to stay for one day but ended up staying for several because the laid-back and simple surf town was too friendly and inviting to leave after a day. The small town of Raglan sits quietly on the west coast of the north island and the residents seem to have a hard time fitting jobs into their busy schedule of surfing all morning and lounging at the cafes lining the main street.
We checked into a friendly RV/campground park that sat on the water with a black sand beach. Main street was a short walk across a bridge that passed over a small bay. After finding our campsite, we ran into the kitchen and quickly prepared a meal so we could watch the sun set while eating dinner on the beach. Our timing was perfect and we watched with several others as the sun dropped behind a small hilly peninsula.
In the morning, we headed to the Raglan Surfing School, which had prime real estate perched on top of a hill that looked out on to the classrooms – three of the most popular surfing beaches in New Zealand. First, they led us through dense forest to an old aluminum building with ratty couches set up in stadium seating. They quickly ran through the basics of surfing and had us practice the steps on our own boards. Rachel was delighted to find out that we’d be using foam boards instead of fiberglass boards. She started worrying the night before about falling and knocking her teeth out on the board. With her biggest fear relieved, she’d have no problem standing up.
After our short lesson, we all hopped in the van and drove down the beach for the real thing. We suited up in thick full body wetsuits, grabbed our boards, and headed out into the surf. Unfortunately, there were no hilarious stories about us struggling to stand up. We both got up after a few tries and spent the next couple hours learning how to turn and how to look cool while sitting on a surfboard in the ocean. (We have some videos of surfing, but still need to get cable to transfer)
Tired from paddling all morning, we spent the rest of the day relaxing in town and jumping off the bridge into the bay with the local 6th graders. Our next stop was Waitomo for the world famous glow worm caves.
In the morning, we headed to the Raglan Surfing School, which had prime real estate perched on top of a hill that looked out on to the classrooms – three of the most popular surfing beaches in New Zealand. First, they led us through dense forest to an old aluminum building with ratty couches set up in stadium seating. They quickly ran through the basics of surfing and had us practice the steps on our own boards. Rachel was delighted to find out that we’d be using foam boards instead of fiberglass boards. She started worrying the night before about falling and knocking her teeth out on the board. With her biggest fear relieved, she’d have no problem standing up.
After our short lesson, we all hopped in the van and drove down the beach for the real thing. We suited up in thick full body wetsuits, grabbed our boards, and headed out into the surf. Unfortunately, there were no hilarious stories about us struggling to stand up. We both got up after a few tries and spent the next couple hours learning how to turn and how to look cool while sitting on a surfboard in the ocean. (We have some videos of surfing, but still need to get cable to transfer)
Tired from paddling all morning, we spent the rest of the day relaxing in town and jumping off the bridge into the bay with the local 6th graders. Our next stop was Waitomo for the world famous glow worm caves.
On our way to Waitomo, we saw a sign for Bridal Veil Falls. Rachel had expressed concerns earlier about not seeing a waterfall yet, so we didn’t even bother to open up the guide book for any wise words. Not knowing what to expect, we walked down a thin path that followed a tranquil stream until the stream abruptly shot over a cliff and fell 180 feet to a pool below. Needless to say, it was a pretty special surprise and we spent about 30 minutes marveling at how much water was coming from the little stream and how it had found its route down..JPG)
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Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Dive with the dolphins, Karikari Peninsula, Cape Reigna, Tane Mahuta
Sunday, February 15
We woke up on Sunday to an unseasonably cold and rainy day. We both secretly hoped that our “Swim with the Dolphins” trip would be canceled because swimming in these conditions was not very appealing. There are several operators who run a swim with the dolphins trip and they all have the same guarantee: if you don’t see any dolphins, you get a voucher to come back anytime for a free trip. It was a 3.5hr boat ride that cruised around the Bay of Islands looking in the dolphins’ usual feeding/hanging out spots. If we were lucky and the dolphins were acting playful, we could jump in and swim with them.
Today, Rachel and I were content to sit in the warm cabin of the boat and watch the birds fishing next to us and extravagant homes hidden in private coves. After about 2.5hrs, the captain was looking more desperately and we were afraid they were going to ‘see’ some dolphins far off and call it a successful day. Soon, he came on the loudspeaker to say that the dolphins didn’t seem to be out playing and we’d be getting a free trip. Rachel and I rescheduled for Monday and tried to stay dry for the rest of the day in cafes and shops in Russell.
We woke up on Sunday to an unseasonably cold and rainy day. We both secretly hoped that our “Swim with the Dolphins” trip would be canceled because swimming in these conditions was not very appealing. There are several operators who run a swim with the dolphins trip and they all have the same guarantee: if you don’t see any dolphins, you get a voucher to come back anytime for a free trip. It was a 3.5hr boat ride that cruised around the Bay of Islands looking in the dolphins’ usual feeding/hanging out spots. If we were lucky and the dolphins were acting playful, we could jump in and swim with them.
Today, Rachel and I were content to sit in the warm cabin of the boat and watch the birds fishing next to us and extravagant homes hidden in private coves. After about 2.5hrs, the captain was looking more desperately and we were afraid they were going to ‘see’ some dolphins far off and call it a successful day. Soon, he came on the loudspeaker to say that the dolphins didn’t seem to be out playing and we’d be getting a free trip. Rachel and I rescheduled for Monday and tried to stay dry for the rest of the day in cafes and shops in Russell.
Monday, February 16
Monday’s weather was better and there were only about 12 people on today’s cruise, half of which were on yesterday’s failed mission, so the crew was especially excited to find some dolphins early and throw us into the water for a swim. It costs $30 extra to swim with the dolphins and from all the pictures we saw it was definitely worth it. We quickly found a pod of about 18 dolphins and we suited up in our masks and snorkels. The captain checked and confirmed that there were no babies in the pod and that they were acting playful. The plan was for everyone to slip quietly into the water (it was news to me that slapping/splashing the water – the way Sandy calls Flipper over – is actually a distress signal and keeps dolphins away) and swim over to the dolphins while making ‘weird and playful’ noises to keep the dolphins interested. Once the boat was in position, the captain told two of the swimmers to get in and swim over to the dolphins. They proceeded to basically do a cannonball into the water and by the time they surfaced the dolphins were 100 meters away. The captain repositioned the boat and had everyone get into the water making ‘interesting noises’. Rachel and I both sucked up a bunch of ocean water hearing the cacophony of the chirping, whistling, moaning coming from the group in unison. There was one especially talented lady who could make bizarre noises while both inhaling and exhaling. Most of the group was laughing so hard at her that we’d forgotten about the dolphins and were just trying to stay afloat.
The second time the boat dropped us off, I was the second swimmer in. I raced out to where the dolphins were and was lucky to see one pass 3 feet in front of me. It actually freaked me out. The water was pretty dark and I didn’t really expect to see a dolphin. As soon as I saw it, I popped up and swam back to where the rest of the group was swimming. I loved the idea of swimming with the dolphins, but not all by myself. By the time I gained enough nerve to swim back to them, they had temporarily disappeared again.
At this point, Rachel and I decided that the companies had come up with these “swim with the dolphins’ trips just to make a quick additional $30 per person because it killed about 1.5hrs worth of time and everyone was so excited about the prospect of swimming with dolphins that the crew didn’t have to continue reciting their script about the surrounding area and problems facing today’s marine wildlife. Anyway, it was quite exciting and we jumped in the third time more laughing at how funny we all looked piling in one after another desperately trying to catch up with the disinterested dolphins.
In the end, we didn’t get to swim and play with the dolphins like the pictures showed…but we ran into a fellow traveler in Auckland who gave us a secret hint about where do swim with dolphins down on the South Island unsupervised. We’ll get back to you about that in a few months. (I’ve gotten some video footage of several events, including swimming with the dolphins, but I just realized I left the cable to transfer video in the US despite the 100+ yards of cables I brought. I’ll upload it as soon as I find a new cable here.)
Monday’s weather was better and there were only about 12 people on today’s cruise, half of which were on yesterday’s failed mission, so the crew was especially excited to find some dolphins early and throw us into the water for a swim. It costs $30 extra to swim with the dolphins and from all the pictures we saw it was definitely worth it. We quickly found a pod of about 18 dolphins and we suited up in our masks and snorkels. The captain checked and confirmed that there were no babies in the pod and that they were acting playful. The plan was for everyone to slip quietly into the water (it was news to me that slapping/splashing the water – the way Sandy calls Flipper over – is actually a distress signal and keeps dolphins away) and swim over to the dolphins while making ‘weird and playful’ noises to keep the dolphins interested. Once the boat was in position, the captain told two of the swimmers to get in and swim over to the dolphins. They proceeded to basically do a cannonball into the water and by the time they surfaced the dolphins were 100 meters away. The captain repositioned the boat and had everyone get into the water making ‘interesting noises’. Rachel and I both sucked up a bunch of ocean water hearing the cacophony of the chirping, whistling, moaning coming from the group in unison. There was one especially talented lady who could make bizarre noises while both inhaling and exhaling. Most of the group was laughing so hard at her that we’d forgotten about the dolphins and were just trying to stay afloat.
The second time the boat dropped us off, I was the second swimmer in. I raced out to where the dolphins were and was lucky to see one pass 3 feet in front of me. It actually freaked me out. The water was pretty dark and I didn’t really expect to see a dolphin. As soon as I saw it, I popped up and swam back to where the rest of the group was swimming. I loved the idea of swimming with the dolphins, but not all by myself. By the time I gained enough nerve to swim back to them, they had temporarily disappeared again.
At this point, Rachel and I decided that the companies had come up with these “swim with the dolphins’ trips just to make a quick additional $30 per person because it killed about 1.5hrs worth of time and everyone was so excited about the prospect of swimming with dolphins that the crew didn’t have to continue reciting their script about the surrounding area and problems facing today’s marine wildlife. Anyway, it was quite exciting and we jumped in the third time more laughing at how funny we all looked piling in one after another desperately trying to catch up with the disinterested dolphins.
In the end, we didn’t get to swim and play with the dolphins like the pictures showed…but we ran into a fellow traveler in Auckland who gave us a secret hint about where do swim with dolphins down on the South Island unsupervised. We’ll get back to you about that in a few months. (I’ve gotten some video footage of several events, including swimming with the dolphins, but I just realized I left the cable to transfer video in the US despite the 100+ yards of cables I brought. I’ll upload it as soon as I find a new cable here.)
Tuesday-Friday (February 17-20)
Rain clouds descended on the Northland for our last few days up here, but it was overshadowed by our increasing concerns with our precious van. Our van was now consuming about 1 gallon of oil for every tank of gas. We nervously laughed about what we’d do with our beloved van. I was still baffled by how enormous the sunroof was. Anyway, we headed for the northern tip of NZ, with a two day stop in the Karikari peninsula – a tip given to us by a fellow camper in Russell. She told it was a quiet campground right in the middle of a beautiful cove. It was about a 15mile drive on a gravel road (something we’re getting more and more used to) and it was beautiful. We actually ended up spending an extra day because it was so tranquil. We went swimming and gave the skim board that came with our van a whirl. 
Next we headed for Cape Reigna, where you can see the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean violently collide right in front of you…so we heard. It was raining and cloudy, but we walked down the beautifully designed pathway to the lighthouse overlooking the meeting waters. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of some waves crashing on the rocks of the west coast and barely made out the smooth beach on the east coast. At first, it seemed quite simple and unimpressive, but knowing that the nearest landmass was over 1000 miles away and the size of the waves had us frozen and speechless for over 20 minutes.
Despite the rain, it was time for some reckless fun, so we headed for the huge sand dunes along Ninety Mile Beach (actually only 56 miles) for some sand boarding. We rented the boards from a local guy who parks his van at the base of the dunes each day and rents boards to anyone wanting a super fast and fun ride down the steep faces of the dunes. When business is slow, he grabs a board and rides down the best lines himself. He showed us the best line.
Rachel quickly learned how to steer and control speed and beat the owner’s longest run on her third trip down the dunes. It was a long hike up the face and a quick and exhilarating trip down. My first two runs on the bunny slopes were ok but when I tried to keep up with the likes of Rachel and the owner, I crashed and crashed and crashed. My pockets were soon overflowing with sand and my back ached from repeatedly slamming and twisting after each crash.
Rachel quickly learned how to steer and control speed and beat the owner’s longest run on her third trip down the dunes. It was a long hike up the face and a quick and exhilarating trip down. My first two runs on the bunny slopes were ok but when I tried to keep up with the likes of Rachel and the owner, I crashed and crashed and crashed. My pockets were soon overflowing with sand and my back ached from repeatedly slamming and twisting after each crash.
Our last stop before heading south was Waipoua Forest for Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest). We pulled over at the trail head expecting to walk for about 15 minutes to see a big tree. We walked for less than a minute and saw some a clearing with some people looking at something. We walked out from under the trees and saw the biggest living thing I have ever seen. It was so big that Rachel and I spent 10 minutes trying to take a picture that would somehow depict its size. We were unsuccessful, but the picture below shows Rachel standing about 50 feet in front of the tree. SO BIG!
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